How to Make a Reallu Stained Pool Water Clear Again
Milky and Cloudy H2o after Residual and Stain Removal
- Thread starter akenis
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- #1
My water "looked" great last calendar week, with virtually no winter maintenance.... except SWG. Last year, I was a trivial slow bringing the CYA and salt levels up, and ended upwardly doing the algae stupor treatment. So I got ahead of the game.
Terminal weekend I got the water perfect:
FC 4
PH 7.five
TA 75 (Goal is seventy)
CH 270
CYA 55 (Goal is 75... but wanted to do information technology in steps and test again this weekend)
Common salt 4000 (Seems hi, but that what the Zodiac LM-2 transmission calls for
Borates 60 (Goal was fifty, merely overshot...ok)
Temp around 65
Note: Looks easy to recall with 75... for ph, TA and CYA!
The leap cleaning likewise involved some Jack's magic purple stuff seq, and a treatment of SeaKlear Natural Stain Remover to try and bring some nasty iron stains out of fiberglass (Didn't become a run a risk to lodge bulk ascorbic acid, refused to purchase $44 Bioguard production, which I assume is vit C, and this was but $22... assume it's vit C also? no label)
The stain handling procedure resulted in low ph, less than 7, and a significant addition of PH up product (sodium carbonate) afterward I ran out of Washing Soda. The SeaKlear chosen for 1lb/10,000... mayhap it was a fault to double it?
Left town after the weekend, stain gratis and perfect balance. Render Friday to a cloudy, and milky puddle with zero chlorine. SWG is weird with temp less than 65 and "add common salt" light is on. Seems weird if it picked this particular fourth dimension to fail, as it's been going strong for 5+ years (I run on everyman of five output settings).
And then why the milky h2o? Infection or side effect of adding sodium carbonate? Started a daze regime:
Friday night sunset: zero for both FC and CC. Added bleach to bring to 17. Tested later on 20 mins FC 13
Sat 830 am: FC/CC 8/1
Then it looks like I've got something growing..... what?
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- #2
Is it possible that, there is no growth, and excessive dose of SeaKlear Stain Remover is even so soaking upwards all the chlorine? Is that an AA product?
As well found that not a proficient idea daze recently after stain handling. So I'm not gonna add together more bleach without further guidance from the experts...
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- #3
Actually, I would do the reverse. Whatever is consuming your chlorine needs to exist continually dosed with chlorine until it'south gone from your pool.And so I'm not gonna add more bleach without further guidance from the experts...
Yes, you lot tried to do a fiddling too much and prepare several months worth of problems in too short a time bridge.
I would daze the puddle. You need to read pool school to get a adept grasp of the shock process. You lot must hold your FC up at shock level by continual adding for peradventure several days until your pool is crystal clear. In that location are manufactures in Pool School to assistance you. While you are preforming the shock process, I would put absolutely nothing else into your pool except chlorine.
Once you get the pool h2o articulate and stabilized for perhaps a few days (learn how to do the overnight FC loss exam in Pool School), so is the time to accost the stains. You may find they have been reduced simply by the shock process.
Lastly, a tenant of what we teach here is to know what and why you lot put things in your puddle and what the upshot volition be. I am not trying to scold just simply to remind you that uncomplicated is all-time.
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- #4
If y'all want to have the best chance of getting and keeping the stains off you want to go very piece of cake on the chlorine. This volition take quite some time, because you lot are almost sure to go algae that manner. If y'all desire the pool swimable shortly, then shock every bit duraliegh recommends, information technology is only that is the most likely way to get the stains dorsum, though they may well already be back from the PH increase anyhow.
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- #v
Seems very probable that milky water is from stain treatment remnants, and PH upwards dose. Seems low chlorine is from excessive AA dose and it'due south still eating upwardly chlorine. My plan for now:
1. Volition effort to keep FC at moderate levels and non shock for fear of bringing back the iron stains.
ii. Will rinse cartridge and run pump continuously to see if it clears up.
3. Algacide just in case FC drops likewise low.
4. Turn off SWG at night and encounter if I get another drop
Sound good? Thanks over again....
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- #7
Although It was less milky, and I could see the lesser improve, information technology has a greenish tent.
Had an old bottle of banish and added xvi oz, and will bring back up to shock level at sunset.
edit: because 55 cya reading was subjective, I bumped upwards to sixty and FC shock target of 18. Math fault on adding bleach and should exist effectually 20 now as the dominicus sets. Volition proceed at 18 several times tomorrow, simply existent depression on 871 reagent. Do they have that at pool stores? Dang the fe stains for now....
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- #8
WHY?Had an old bottle of banish and added 16 oz
I'm sorry to be harsh but I want to emphasize to you you are tossing things in your pool without knowing what they will do and hoping for proficient results. That won't work.Lastly, a tenant of what we teach hither is to know what and why yous put things in your pool and what the outcome will be. I am non trying to scold but simply to remind you lot that uncomplicated is best.
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- #9
The clarifier (which was pre BBB) was specifically recommended for a similar situation and worked! I added the banish (pre BBB) thinking maybe I wouldn't demand to shock more and it might be able to prevent anything from taking root.
I realize the clarifiers/flocks are overpriced, usually innefective scams for the most part. Merely they where left over.... whatsoever harm in that?
I certainly appreciate your assist and all the others, and yous appear to have been right in this case. But delight don't treat me like the newb here who runs to the pool store to buy all the Crud and throw it in the pool. While certainly not as knowledgeable as you lot and the other here I do take a physics degree and take read hither very thoroughly over the years.
Cheers over again.
Edit: not all situations are equal. Mine volition be self sufficient, every bit I am almost always away during the calendar week... and volition exit early Monday am and not return until Thursday afternoon. So I won't be able to effectively do the algae shock, overnight, shock level overnight routine.
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- #ten
I signal of clarification.....I wasn't "correct".
I suggested one path to help you lot get your pool straightened out and Jason offered you two paths....i of which was the aforementioned every bit I suggested.
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- #11
Appears that FC level held at 20 overnight.... with SWG on superchlorinate though. H2o is much clearer, only still has light-green tent. Also has a few soapy looking bubbles on surface (Is that some byproduct of clarifier/algacide that I mistakenly added)?
Took 2 readings. 1 with sample diluted 1:1 with distilled h2o. Both gave roughly same results... so perhaps I tin make my 871 last a bit longer.
The SWG, Zodiac LM2-24, is rated for 25,000 gal pool and 24g/hr. Is the output at the max selected level the same as the superchlorinate button... or does superchlorinate go college than max?
Is at that place a relationship between the SWG output of 24g/hr and an equivalent amount of adding bleach? Just trying to go an idea of how much my FC would have dropped if SWG wasn't on over dark.
Cheers again.
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- #12
24 grams of chlorine per hour in 25,000 gallons (94,635 liters) is 24*thousand/94635 = 0.25 ppm FC per hour. So if "overnight" means 12 hours, then that's 3 ppm FC so if the FC didn't drib, then you lot would take lost 3 ppm FC overnight had the SWG not been running.Is there a relationship between the SWG output of 24g/hr and an equivalent amount of adding bleach? Just trying to get an idea of how much my FC would accept dropped if SWG wasn't on over night.
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- #13
Aforementioned logic on my 10K gallons yields .63 ppm/hr, or 7.6 ppm overnight! And at 60 CYA, it would have 1 gal and 1 qt of half-dozen% bleach.
Anyway, water looked better by Lord's day afternoon. With burnoff, FC went down to about xviii past Sunday evening... still at stupor level.
Whatever idea if "super chlorinate" level is the same as manually selecting level v? Had to leave this am, and left swg on v, and prepare pump to run most twenty hrs/24-hour interval. Hope the green will be well gone when I render Thurs.
This raises the questions:
one. If there was cypher consuming FC and no burnoff, would FC continue to rising, or would efficiency taper off as FC rose?
2. Does FC burnoff at a faster rate at higher concentrations?
3. Wanna take a approximate at what my FC will exist past Thursday afternoon? LOL!
Thank you
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- #14
Super-chlorinate probably just keeps it on the maximum 100% on-time setting for some period of time, possibly 24 hours. If level 5 is the maximum, then information technology should be similar except that setting a specific level would exist permanent until you inverse it.
FC declines in a proportional rate to the active chlorine level, and then roughly proportional to the FC/CYA ratio. The pass up charge per unit in sunlight is more complicated since higher CYA levels have an additional "shielding" effect of lower depths beyond that associated with the agile chlorine level. Usually, a daze level of chlorine which is roughly four times the minimum active chlorine level, has <= 1 ppm FC drib overnight. There is also an consequence of temperature so very warm pools volition have higher loss rates (spas are even higher, of course).
The loss of FC from sunlight usually dwarfs other FC losses unless you've got algae or organics in the pool.
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- #15
I have similar outcome. What is this mean?
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- #16
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Source: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/milky-and-cloudy-water-after-balance-and-stain-removal.29217/
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